Manila Ain't Vanilla

Four things about Manila made an impression me while seeing the city for the first time. There are lots of people, lots of traffic, lots of overhead electrical and telephone lines seriously weighing down the utility poles, and a thick low layer of smog. Many people were wearing surgical masks or scarfs over their faces. You could smell it.  You could taste it. My mini-motor cab was belching smoke as was every bike, taxi, bus, car and truck on the street.

Having said all that, Manila is a vibrant city of color, movement, music and never ending activity.

Officer Randy Franciso

This morning we were docked at Pier 15 right next to the Philippine Coast Guard and the Navy's home pier.  There were two of their newest capital ships, both Tarlac Class amphibious warfare platform, one which was just coming into it's berth. There was also in port just the other side of us a U.S. Navy mine counter-measures ship, MCM 14, Chief, with sailors active all on and about the ship.

I decided to head to town on my own as I didn't see any ship's excursions that really interested me. I headed out the gate and negotiated a price for a ride. We went from a "tourist fare" of 100 pesos to 10 pesos for a tiny motorcycle-cab to the elevated train staion nearest to the port. I had to fold myself like a yoga-ninja to get in the tiny passenger cabin.  I had learned from our earlier stop at Puerto Princesa that prices in the Philipines are always negotiable and one is expected to haggle.

Once I got to the station I found that there was a line two blocks long to get the the stairs that went up two stories to get to the ticket counter and trains. Set up between the sidewalk and the street were dozens of small shops set up facing the sidewalk as the people line slowly passed by. Food, snacks, drinks, jewelry, lots of cellphone cases, sunglasses and all kinds of decorative items were on display in small booths, tables and even on the ground.

Little girl at one of the sidewalk markets.

Self portrait. See if you can find me.

I finally made it up and the only thing in English were the Coca-Cola signs. They were everywhere, including under the stairs handrail to the floor in bright red and white. The only thing on the ticket counter route map I could understand was "central station" which was were I was going.

My ticket was 10 pesos and I headed for the tracks. The platform was packed and when the train came in everybody moved in.  Nobody waited for the mass of people getting off the train.  They started boarding immediately so I joined in and bulldozed myself into a spot just before the doors closed.  We were packed like sardines in a can. It was worse that a New York City subway. At least they for the most part let people off the train and make space before moving in.

Security in very serious in Manila. The armed guards are in every place of any significance. Many had shotguns straped in front of them, and all them armed with some type of weapon. No silly little stun-guns of pepper spray for these guys.  And each and every one of them were in shape professional uniforms that looked very similar to police ones.

It was no different at the station.  I located the police. The railroad police.  They are part of the PNP, national police. I spent time with a young officer Randy Francisco.  We sat down for quite a while. He has two young daughters so we compared photos as we talked about police work in the Philippines.  He is quite inexperienced, having only been on the job about three years but, he is a bright young man. 

Before I set out today I looked up the PNP Railway Police and there was an article about their officers busting a group that had been stealing rail supplies and equipment along the right-of-way and selling it for scrap. Just like at home. Something a little different from my other visits.

I decided to head back to the ship early because traffic is almost non-stop gridlock and I didn't want to miss the ship's departure like I almost did in Darwin Plus it was serious hot, 33c, and New Orleans level humid. I had to negotiate a motorcycle-cab again and the cab-boss sure saw me coming.  I was a lot further out from the ship since I'd taken the elevated in. He told me 1000 pesos! No. He asked how much I'd pay and I told him 10 pesos.  He threw a fit. All of a sudden it was 500 pesos the 250. I walked away with him cussing me in a language I did not understand.  I walked a block down and got a ride for 140 pesos to which I added a 10 peso tip.

Homeless camp

Coast Guard HQ

Back at Insigna

I got back to the port just as several buses of passengers returning from excursions arrived. I managed to get out of the cab.  I swear I know what it was like for the Mercury astronauts to get in and out of their capsuls. It would have been easier to roll out of the cab onto the ground on my back that the gymnastics it took the way I did it. 

I'd worked my way up to the X-Ray and Magnetometer gate when I heard my named from behind me .I heard but didn't see anyone I knew. Then a minute later the woman in line behind me tapped me on the shoulder and handing me a large plastic shopping bag, asked if I was Jim. She pointed back and said some lady way back wanted me to carry the back through security.  I looked back and saw Ann waving at me about 8 people back while holding two other bags.

I saw the bomb dog sniffing bags just in front of me and thinking I didn't want to spend any time in a Filipino jail. I went through anyway.  It was flowers for the dinner table that night. She was overloaded so I carried them onto the ship for her.

Finally as we left port there was a big full moon over the city, the water and out tug boat at the ready.