Cork, Last Day in Europe

Just like the Titanic, this is last place we see land on this side of the Atlantic. I guess that put a cork in it. We were actually docked at the Port of Cork, a sweet little village of Cobn,  It is pronounced Cove. It was explained to me that "bn" is pronounced like the letter "v."

This pleasant little town hugging the southern coast of Ireland was our last taste of Europe before we headed out to sea for four days across the North Atlantic. Much like the Titanic. And, like that famous ship, in heavy fog.

The Titanic last left port here in Cobn, right about were the Insignia was berthed. It left Southampton on April 10, 1912, stopped in Cherbough, France and last saw land in Queenstown, Ireland, now named Cabn, before going to meet its fate in the middle of the Atlantic. In fact, right close to where we are now as I'm writing this on the ship. And, as if I could forget the fog I see all around us, the ship blows it's massive horn every so often to remind me.

One very distinguishing feature of Cobn was the flowers. They were planted in abundance everywhere. It really enhanced the charm and atmosphere and gave it a rich colorful character.  I just enjoyed being there.

There is a Titanic museum, a statue of immigrants leaving faithfully for the New World and of course the Rob Roy pub. I meet some friends there at the pub and so I was obliged to have a beer. That's another reason I like Ireland. Although I have started to develop a taste for wine, the Irish are all about the beer and whiskey.

Rob Roy 

I really like this picture.

Postal drop.

Titanic Museum 

Looks like my wife Becky to me. I didn't know she'd been to Ireland.

They like beer in Ireland.

That's the Insignia docked in the background, center of the photo.

Dublin Garda Siochana

Much different than my taxi drivers around most of the world, in Dublin he was happy to take me to the police station. Instead of predicting they wouldn't want to see me he enthusiastically said that was great, they'd be happy to see me.  And they were.

The Garda Station was built in 1905, well kept up and maintained. Nothing like the old run down West Precinct at 247 Washington that had been several things including a synagogue before the city's final use for common city employees. Yeah, I'm still not happy with the City of Memphis politicians. This however, was a building worth maintaining for tradition. They are proud of it.

The first officer I met was Patrick and he was anxious to show me around. He is 35 with just 6 months on the force. A 35 year old rookie! Isn't there TV show with that premise? Well, I soon met another officer who was about 30 and he was a rookie too! Later I was introduced to a lady veteran officer with 10 years that was younger than the two rookies.

Patrick showed me around the station and talked about their functions.  They don't carry firearms but, have access to them if needed, which he said was almost never. They have a badge and ID but, don't wear it on their uniform.  They have Garda markings and their shoulder applets have their area, similar to a precinct, number and their personal department identification number on it. On one photo you can see the 2 embroidered about his personal number ID 233 which indicates area J, precinct 2, officer 233.. You can see the Dublin area on the map.

They have one police agency for the whole country. I can see where that would simplify jurisdictional issues like we have.

They don't have a lot of crime, mostly petty stuff: fights, vandalism, thefts.  Guns are outlawed for citizens and the police are well regarded and respected. They feel well at ease in the community and rarely get much resistance when they are called to intervene. A very relaxed workplace, reflecting what in my short time in Ireland, their whole national attitude. Don't get me wrong, they have serious crimes just not at the level or intensity of the states. There was one car on patrol in the precinct at that moment and there were no calls for service pending.

The yellow reflective vests they wear are not ballistic vests.  They are stabber vests, meant to stop sharp object penetration. The female office said one of her complaints was the outdated and uncomfortable uniforms that had not been updated in decades. Now I'm starting to hear the similar complaints we all hear about our politicians and department leaders.  She said the stabber vest was hot and weighed a good stone (14 pounds) and they now made ones that were half the weight.

They liked the UP police patches I gave them. They don't wear a similar item but, they gave me one of their badge tie pins that they wear on their uniform. Nice.

They were a good bunch of folks. They really opened up to me about their work and issues. 

They even gave me a copy of their rights forms they use on an arrest.  It is much more extensive than ours. It included items like, Who is the member in charge, the reason for arrest, getting a solicitor, visits and phone calls, searches and why, plus several other items. The Member in Charge can also set bail and can release you if he considers it prudent, all without going before a judge. It also explains that the police can use reasonable force if you fail to cooperate. 

Notice the UP Police patch at the bottom left corner of the photo. The J on the shoulder board in the police district, the 2 in the number is the precinct  and J253 is his ID 

forms, forms, forms

Inside detention cell.

detention cells

Built in 1905.

Interrogation room.

These aren't gun lockers.  They are officer personal storage

Map of district J, or Dublin, and the six precincts. The areas are called something else but, it our equivalent. 

This looks like almost every other police desk in the world.

Officer Patrick in his staber vest.

Dublin, Ireland

Ireland is the Arkansas of Europe. I don't mean that in a derogatory way for either the country or Arkansas.  Both are very green and the people are friendly and helpful.  They also generally lack any sense of urgency about anything and have a working class attitude and refinement. Salt of the earth but, couldn't care less for fashion or propriety. 

I started noticing things in Belfast and my train ride to Dublin.  There were no fancy stations like the rest of Europe or the Far East.  They were more like bus stations. Their trains were fine but plain and better than in the U.S. but more utilitarian than sleek and stylish.

Once in Dublin, I found it a nice scenic town, friendly but, like a lot of Arkansans, they lived in a beautiful place but, seemed used to it.  They grew up up in a place that outsiders appreciate more than those who were born and raised there.

Oscar Wilde statue on rock made with 4 different colored stone.

They had a large Chinese population and traditional restaurant . These are
copper exhaust fans for when cooked or heated at the table. Very good.

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Scientology office.

Watched futball at Dublin sports bar.

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House of Oscar Wilde now American College of Dublin.

 I can also tell you they they don't care for Britons nor the Ulsters.  There is a long bitter history there. It is not currently hostile but it underscores life there a little. Now, it's like us dissing Iowa and Minnesotan snowbirds but, with the potential  for it to suddenly turn ugly.

I guess because it's a small country, it has a little attitude. Ireland has 4.7 million people, a little bigger than Arkansas at 3 million. and almost half of the over 8 million in just the city of London. Just like there are 8.7 million people in New York City, almost three times as many than in all of Arkansas.

They have only four warships over 2000 tons in their navy, and they're an island! They are the Samuel Beckett, James Joyce, William Yeats and George Bernard Shaw. I guess naming them for writers is a pretty good choice and reflective of their national character.

 I found a nice park in the city center with statues of  Oscar Wilde and James Joyce. There were artists displaying their paintings on the iron fence around the park, similar as you would see in New Orleans or Paris.  I found one artist I particularly liked, Pete Hogan. I bought one I like the style so much.

I got to talking with Pete and he asked where I was from. I said Memphis and he was interested in Elvis. He learned that I was on an around the world cruise.  He told me he too, had cruised around the world but, mostly by himself in a 30 foot sail boat he'd built himself.

Wow. He told me he wrote a book about the trip and illustrated it himself. He dug through his car and a large bag of painting supplies and pulled out his book and gave it to me. It is a marvelous book and the illustrations are wonderful. I got him to autograph it for me, to which he seemed a little embarrassed. This the second book given to me by it's author on this trip, both of which are my favorite treasures. 

One of his illustrations. 

Walking around I found a little Victorian era pharmacy turned bookstore called Sweny's that is less than 100 yards from where George Bernard Shaw was born, It is the place in James Joyce's book Ulysses, character Leopold Bloom bought his lemon soap. They still sell the soap, books and conduct readings in the evening. I would have liked to stay for that.

Talking to the proprietor, he asked where in America I was from. Apparently there was certainty that I was an American. When I told him I was born and raised in Memphis, he said, "Oh, Elvis!" Then he pulled a guitar from under the counter and began playing for me.  This was not the first time that happened on the world cruise. I didn't buy any lemon soap but, I did get a few postcards to sent home. 

The last shuttle bus back to the ship was at 4:45 so I had 30 minutes left on shore. The Kennedy Pub was close by so I stopped in and ordered a pint of Guinness.  I told the bar keep I only had time for one beer because I had to catch a bus.  

Remember that lack of urgency I talked about?  I took him almost 10 minutes to finally give me a beer.  That while just casually talking with a customer who was leaving and had already paid his tab. I downed the black beer, dropped 5 euros on the bar and ran to the stop. I was the last passenger and the bus left as soon as I got on.

Kennedy Pub

My quick beer.

Like Arkansas, it may not be big but, it has natural beauty, talent, genuine friendliness and a touch of stubbornness and defiance. Maybe it should be out sister country/state.